الاثنين، 8 أغسطس 2011

Libya Free _Second Visit

!!You Again
!!And you still have no passport




The customs officials at the border were not very happy to see me once again only 5 days after I came back to Egypt

" I had no time to get a passport...soorry :D..and remember we were all busy with voting on the constitutional amendments.. right??? *looking around for supportive nods*..by the way, did you vote?" my question was met by a cold look, so I continued staring at the ceiling while the so-unfriendlly official worked on my " permission card"

I travelled with a crew including Egyptians and Norwegians (a correspondent working with CCTV and a journalist)

Hossam, an Egyptian cameraman with the crew, told them some fairy tales about how desperately they needed me: "She's the interpreter, how can they work without one hah?? I can't talk to these ppl..I have to draw on sand if I wanted to say something"

BTW: This time it took me even longer to convince my parents. NATO forces gave my mother the execuse to officially call it WAR. I told her that we will only go to Salloum and see if we can go into Libya. They were finally convinced ...almost. After I made it to Salloum, they called: Come back! (sounds like i'm not adopted afterall)


Salloum
Here we come again
March 21th

We arrived at night. The hotel was full of journalists most of which were waiting, like us, trying to evaluate the "security situation". Some were talking about journalists being kidnapped and how it was dangerous to wander alone. ( yea yea! I'm sure those journalists were sent by my parents to dissuade me from going)

We didn't stay there for a long time, but I was able to capture a couple of street photos





A woman from Salloum,on the road in front of the hotel






Locals from Salloum



Once we set foot in the hotel, all concerns were vanished. Everybody was smiling. The hotel was full of rebels and they were all..smiling. You could tell how high their spirits were



A mosque in the town of Tubruq



Next morning, we were able to meet Salma, a mother and an activist who, after the revolution broke out, took it on her shoulders to help families who fled violence in Ajdabiya seeking shelter in Tubruq.

"We have lists full of names of people who want to give their spare apartments to families coming from Ajdabiya"

She took us to visit Farag's family, who left everything in Ajdabiya. The father and two sons were still stranded somewhere there. All communication was lost



Farag family from Ajdabyia, an emotional moment as father and sons remembered



Moatasem, the youngest memeber, was very concerned about his father and brothers..and his two pet birds: Panda and Fooly. "I used to feed them everyday, now I don't know if they were alive or dead"



Moatasem, youngest of Farag's Family. Talking about his bet birds he left home





Video report: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mZnUWynLXjs

( I did the voice over for the mother, isn't this coool!!)


People

People in Benghazi are simple, helpful and very cooperative. We had zero hard time anywhere we went in Libya. One can't help but love them and pray Allah grant them victory very soon



Local man showing a photo for his family to his friends in a small cafe in Benghazi



I loved everything about Benghazi: people, weather, revolution spirit...but one thing blew my mind away: TRAFFIC

Coming from Cairo, I would rejoice at seeing cars lined up without the watch of a single traffic officer or the aid of cameras to bust offenders red handed. I was mesmerised at how they have the patience to just wait and wait till the light goes green.

It was very cool seeing children organizing traffic!!! They were respected and greeted by passangers



Childern were encouraged to take more responsibilities, like directing traffic in Benghazi



In time of revolution, people are even nicer! We had a special treatment for being journalists, but I and the cameraman had royal treatment for being Egyptians. We would tease the rest of the crew: "The owner of the resturant gave us those drinks for free! and do you know why?? do u know why!! Because we are EGYPTIAANS! (*victory sign)




Protests

In Mahkama (Tahrir Square equilavent in Libya) mass protests held almost daily. Women protests were always different. Such driving force and energy that only blend you into a sea of emotions. I was among brave wonderful and inspiring women who were chanting beautiful songs. I fought tears back and kept taking photos. I left the square only to come back again and hug those wonderful women!








Amazing inspiring women of Libya in demonstrations, Mahkama, Benghazi


We met a Syrian family who has been living in Ajdabiya for 20 years. Mostafa and his wife took their seven childern and flee to Benghazi when Gadaffi forces attacked Ajdabiya, but went back home when news were spread about rebels recapturing the town. Water and electricity were cut off for days and it was very difficult for the kids "Youth from Benghazi came to our rescue and installed water tanks for us" . The mother looked sad and weary. I can't even imagine the kind of stress she's been going through. "My youngest Abdelsalam would grap on to me and say i'm terrified mom, when they were bombarding the city. I would gather all my kids in one room so if we died, we die all together"


Mostafa, a Syrian father living in Ajdabiya hugging his youngest Abdelsalam


Marwa, go take some photos
!!I can take photos, but not of DEAD BODIES

NATO airstrikes left so many of Gadaffi forces tanks and bodies burned on the road between Ajdabiya and Brega. We were just in time before they took the bodies away. I started taking photos ...I was grateful their faces were covered. I almost screamed at one local who thought he's doing me a favor and he uncovered a body's face


Bodies of Gaddafi's troops (locals covered the bodies in respect


Airstrikes blew tanks leaving huge holes as a result


Kids
- A little girl sitting with her father in the lobby of the hotel, with the Libyan flag printed on her small cheeks looked at me then when I looked back she dropped her eyes in shyness. I asked her if she would sing the national anthem and to my surprise she sang OUR national anthem. Her father explained that she spent some time in Egypt not too long ago. (she must've spent that time in Tahrir Square)

- While taking photos one day in Tubruq, a group of kids gather around me .. I asked them if they would tell me some of the slogans they chant when they go with their parents to demonstrate. Some of their chants were: Tell Gaddafi and his children, Libya has real men". " Moamar out, Libya free". and the the most fameous of them all:" The people want to overthrow the regime


Libya Free, Gadaffi out! mini protest in Ajdabiya



Graffiti


Libya chocking Gadafi


Hullicination pills contents


Photographer

I was basically hired as a translator, but there they needed someone to take photos too. It was a great opportunity for me, the camera i used was bit better than mine and allowed me take some better shots than what I usually take.

Two photos were published in Dasgavisin, a Norwegian newspaper. one of them were for the family in Tubruq watching the news, but I can't get a copy of the one published in the newspaper. Here's the other one


الجمعة، 5 أغسطس 2011

Libya Free

Saturday March 5th
A Translator is needed...in Libya
" We wonder if you're available for work" Pekka, a Finnish journalist I helped his colleagues few weeks ago in Egypt, said on the phone.
Me: yes of course (available ehh i can't wait!!!hire me now)
FJ: I and my colleague, a photographer, will be in Egypt on Monday, but the plan is to go to Libya. Can you come with us

Me: hah! Libya?!! well ..it's risky. but well maybe..I can support you in Egypt that's for sure
Pause

FJ: ok sounds good. see you on Monday
Since they arrived on Monday and till Wednesday morning (March 9th) I wasn't sure if I should go and if I can actually go even if I wanted to. This trip would be risky, but fun and full of surprises..exactly what I need. I also thought it would open up my career so I worked on convincing my parents who eventually agreed

Wednesday March 9th
Rabaa El Adawaya Mosque was the place I traced for our start point. I coordinated our trip with one of the aid convoys sent to Libya, which the journalist wanted to also mention in his story about Libya. We reached the mosque around 8 pm and interviewed some doctors and volunteers. To our surprise, only one truck was going that night and nobody else was. A pharmacist helped us find a taxi. "It's very simple, you don't even need any coordination to get to Libya" He said "the taxi will take you to the border and you can find any ride from there"

We finally make it to Salloum; a small town on the Egyptian-Libyan border. It's 8 am and it's freezing. I put on all the clothes I have in my back bag and I'm still shaking. I go around checking for a ride to get to Benghazi among the raised eyebrows of locals and soliders.







Salloum town at the Egyptian-Libyan border



One tiny issue: I have no passport :D
I checked with some friends before I left for Salloum and they confirmed "yes you still can get in with your ID" But the borders officials didn't quiet agree, they all insisted: You can't. You have to go back home



Thursday March 10th- Salloum Border
I went to many offices and talked to many people. "We're concerned for your safety. The situation is not stable there" one police officer said. I explained that I understand the risks, but I am also aware that the east is controlled by rebels. But the officer claimed they were not rebels and kept intimidating me by stories about girls who were kidnapped or worse. "I have faith in God nothing bad will happen, you can't send me back home. I came all this way to Salloum and I will go to Libya" I said to every one who said no

It took me 4 hours of trying to get inside Libya; working on getting any kind of permission to let me in. I'm grateful the journalists I'm working with were flexible and waited without complaining

Welcome to Libya
We were greeted by an Army Pilot! he shook hands with everybody and chatted heartily. "Take care and hopefully after we free Libya, we'd come and visit you in Egypt"
(exactly what he said was: "Inshalla ben7arero Libya negoka zeyara le masr we nakol gebna 2areesh" that's because I mentioned I'm originally from el Sharkya lol)
Youth were checking our ..i mean their passports, which gave me time for taking some photos



The First Rebels we meet on the Libyan border






Could those be the kidnappers! hmmm






Rebels greeting passengers with the victory sign






Gunshots
We stop for food in one of the towns on the way to Benghazi and as we are out of the car taking photos we could hear gunshots close by. "Nothing, he's just shooting birds" joked Mika, the Finnish photographer. Turns out it was anti-Gadaffi rebels firing in the air. This happened a number of times in Benghazi too. "But they shouldn't! What if Gadaffi forces were in town and they started firing, how would I know this time was for real?" One driver said.

Beautiful Libya
The Green Mountain is absolutely amazing!! I kept telling the driver this could get Libya a fortune, there should be lots of hotels nearby; the view is breathtaking..... but of course.. Gadaffi is there to make sure Libyans don't breath



Beautiful Libya



Around 8 pm and as we arrive to Benghazi, the Egyptian Libyan driver gives us a little history about the city during the revolution days. "And this is Benghazi prison, they burned it down and released all the prisoners" he said. Free prisoners to intimidate locals, connections cut off, rumors and lies about revolutionaries are all common elements between revolutions in Egypt and Libya.

In Benghazi, Al Mahkama Square is where people head everyday for mass demonstrations. The spirit of Mahkama resembles that of Tahrir Square. Though Mahkama is not more of a wide street overlooking the sea and surrounded by courts.



First photo from Mahkama night demostrations




Friday March 11th
It was a beautiful morning and I was very excited. I never been outside of Egypt at all. The farthest I ever went was Marsa Matrouh. And I never woke up that early for work and I never worked without a routine. I did the same thing every day for years...but today I have no clue where we'd go and whom we'll meet and what will happen. I must be dreaming!

I opened the window to take a shot of the view outside but couldn't close it again. I had to go anyway for breakfast so I left it open and told them at the reception I can't close the window. The receptionist was a very pleasant young man. "we'll close it for you this time, but don't open it again" he beemed and said he was joking. He asked if I were Libyan (many wondered if I were) and if I were a journalist. The man who closed my window expressed his anger vehemently towards Gadaffi, "He pays a fortune for mercenaries he brought to kill us, while I'm a college graduate and I can't make a decent living"



view from my hotel room window




It's about 45 minutes before the Friday payer, hundreds of men, women and children are marching in the street right in front of the hotel were we stayed, followed by tens of cars, all waving flags and shouting slogans of freedom and heading for Mahkama.

It gets crowded as more and more people flood in from all over the city



A family in Mahkama square, Benghazi



A handicapped man helped to get to the side where men pray in Mahkama, Benghazi





In Mahkama, women had a huge space right in front of the Martyers wall and the main Radio station, while men were further in the back towards the sea.



Women at Friday Prayer in Mahkama



From the top of the Media Center or what was the Supreme Court, photographers had the best view for the Friday Prayer that was attended by thousands of people



Friday Prayer






Media & Artwork Center
Revolutionaries have turned the courts in Mahkama to a media center where journalists can come and finish thier work right from the middle of events. They also created access cards to be given to all journalists, photographers, correspondents and translators.

But this media center is also a place where young people share their creative work about the revolution. The walls were covered by caricatures and graffiti.



Artwork on the walls of the Media Center in Mahkama





But graffiti was not just in Mahkama, it was all over the city. Everywhere you go you'll find revolutionaries writings on the walls of Benghazi. I was amused by reading them all; taking as many photos as I could. It was cool seeing those affected by the Egyptian sense of humor



"Moamar, Teer Enta" Egyptians used the same phrase for Mubarak. Teer enta is a phrase from an Egyptian movie, a genie would say it to the main character so he can disappeare





Speaking of Egyptians; an Egyptian Medical Tent was set up in Mahkama, with doctors, volunteers and a huge pile of medications under the pick and call of rebels



Egyptian Tent in Benghazi




It was such a joy for me to have seen and hear slogans of unity between Libya and Egypt. Young men would break into this slogan when they see my Egyptian Tag: Libya & Egypt; one hand



Libya & Egypt, one hand



Saturday March 12th
Women March
After we reached the house of a Finnish friend, I thought I better use that time and get the cellphone and credit I need to buy. Going back to the hotel, in the emtpy streets of Benghazi I see a big demonstration of women apparently heading to Mahkama. I asked the driver to pull over so I can take some photos. I had to run to catch up with them..I noticed I was the only person taking photos at this time and wondered how would it be like if I were actually working with some network



Women demonstration heading to Mahkama



Passing by the hotel, all journalists went out and started taking photos. I met my team an hour after that and we went for more photos



Kids protesters chanting slogans of Freedom from the Square Radio



Late that day, my team went back to the hotel and I went to buy a memory card, and though the hotel was very close, I wasn't sure which street I should take. A Libyan young man helped me find my way and on the way to the hotel he explained how weak and stupid Gadaffi was, something I told him we're all sure of.

On the way back to the hotel I came across the Libyan Central Bank in Benghazi. Salem, the Libyan youngman, explained how it's protected by both civilians and armed special forces from the Libyan army



El geesh wel sha3 eeeed wa7da. Army and People, one hand



Sunday March 13th
TubruQ
After the ambush set up for Aljazeera cameraman, many journalists decided to leave and even those who wanted to stay were called by their bosses to leave ASAP. We left Benghazi for a town in the east called Tubruq some 150km from the Egyptian border.

But before leaving Benghazi, we caught the Egyptian Libyan Doctors March supporting the Arab Leagues call for a No-Fly zone over Libya



Doctors march to support the Arab League call for a No-Fly zone over Libya






Rebels supporting the Doctor march






On the way back to Egypt, we stopped for food at a town called Emsaed not too far from the Egyptian border. I took this photo stealthily from the car window



Locals sitting outside a shop in Emsaed



Last Checkpoint
Stopping for some photos wtih those amazing people



Caption:Feb 17th Revolution. We win or die. Allah is on our side



EGYPT
The rebels left us with friendly goodbyes and wishes of a safe trip back to Cairo just so we get to the frowny faces of some Egyptian officials on the other side. Most of them recognized me and remembered I was "that girl" who tried to get through to Libya. "So you went! ha" one of them shouted astonished

I totally forgot about their frowns once we came across the friendly faces of the Egyptian Army. An officer and a soldier welcoming us home and disturbuting food and juice was such a relief for me.