Saturday March 5th
A Translator is needed...in Libya
" We wonder if you're available for work" Pekka, a Finnish journalist I helped his colleagues few weeks ago in Egypt, said on the phone.
Me: yes of course (available ehh i can't wait!!!hire me now)
FJ: I and my colleague, a photographer, will be in Egypt on Monday, but the plan is to go to Libya. Can you come with us
Me: hah! Libya?!! well ..it's risky. but well maybe..I can support you in Egypt that's for sure
Pause
FJ: ok sounds good. see you on Monday
Since they arrived on Monday and till Wednesday morning (March 9th) I wasn't sure if I should go and if I can actually go even if I wanted to. This trip would be risky, but fun and full of surprises..exactly what I need. I also thought it would open up my career so I worked on convincing my parents who eventually agreed
Wednesday March 9th
Rabaa El Adawaya Mosque was the place I traced for our start point. I coordinated our trip with one of the aid convoys sent to Libya, which the journalist wanted to also mention in his story about Libya. We reached the mosque around 8 pm and interviewed some doctors and volunteers. To our surprise, only one truck was going that night and nobody else was. A pharmacist helped us find a taxi. "It's very simple, you don't even need any coordination to get to Libya" He said "the taxi will take you to the border and you can find any ride from there"
We finally make it to Salloum; a small town on the Egyptian-Libyan border. It's 8 am and it's freezing. I put on all the clothes I have in my back bag and I'm still shaking. I go around checking for a ride to get to Benghazi among the raised eyebrows of locals and soliders.
Salloum town at the Egyptian-Libyan border
One tiny issue: I have no passport :D
I checked with some friends before I left for Salloum and they confirmed "yes you still can get in with your ID" But the borders officials didn't quiet agree, they all insisted: You can't. You have to go back home
Thursday March 10th- Salloum Border
I went to many offices and talked to many people. "We're concerned for your safety. The situation is not stable there" one police officer said. I explained that I understand the risks, but I am also aware that the east is controlled by rebels. But the officer claimed they were not rebels and kept intimidating me by stories about girls who were kidnapped or worse. "I have faith in God nothing bad will happen, you can't send me back home. I came all this way to Salloum and I will go to Libya" I said to every one who said no
It took me 4 hours of trying to get inside Libya; working on getting any kind of permission to let me in. I'm grateful the journalists I'm working with were flexible and waited without complaining
Welcome to Libya
We were greeted by an Army Pilot! he shook hands with everybody and chatted heartily. "Take care and hopefully after we free Libya, we'd come and visit you in Egypt"
(exactly what he said was: "Inshalla ben7arero Libya negoka zeyara le masr we nakol gebna 2areesh" that's because I mentioned I'm originally from el Sharkya lol)
Youth were checking our ..i mean their passports, which gave me time for taking some photos
The First Rebels we meet on the Libyan border
Could those be the kidnappers! hmmm
Rebels greeting passengers with the victory sign
Gunshots
We stop for food in one of the towns on the way to Benghazi and as we are out of the car taking photos we could hear gunshots close by. "Nothing, he's just shooting birds" joked Mika, the Finnish photographer. Turns out it was anti-Gadaffi rebels firing in the air. This happened a number of times in Benghazi too. "But they shouldn't! What if Gadaffi forces were in town and they started firing, how would I know this time was for real?" One driver said.
Beautiful Libya
The Green Mountain is absolutely amazing!! I kept telling the driver this could get Libya a fortune, there should be lots of hotels nearby; the view is breathtaking..... but of course.. Gadaffi is there to make sure Libyans don't breath
Beautiful Libya
Around 8 pm and as we arrive to Benghazi, the Egyptian Libyan driver gives us a little history about the city during the revolution days. "And this is Benghazi prison, they burned it down and released all the prisoners" he said. Free prisoners to intimidate locals, connections cut off, rumors and lies about revolutionaries are all common elements between revolutions in Egypt and Libya.
In Benghazi, Al Mahkama Square is where people head everyday for mass demonstrations. The spirit of Mahkama resembles that of Tahrir Square. Though Mahkama is not more of a wide street overlooking the sea and surrounded by courts.
First photo from Mahkama night demostrations
Friday March 11th
It was a beautiful morning and I was very excited. I never been outside of Egypt at all. The farthest I ever went was Marsa Matrouh. And I never woke up that early for work and I never worked without a routine. I did the same thing every day for years...but today I have no clue where we'd go and whom we'll meet and what will happen. I must be dreaming!
I opened the window to take a shot of the view outside but couldn't close it again. I had to go anyway for breakfast so I left it open and told them at the reception I can't close the window. The receptionist was a very pleasant young man. "we'll close it for you this time, but don't open it again" he beemed and said he was joking. He asked if I were Libyan (many wondered if I were) and if I were a journalist. The man who closed my window expressed his anger vehemently towards Gadaffi, "He pays a fortune for mercenaries he brought to kill us, while I'm a college graduate and I can't make a decent living"
view from my hotel room window
It's about 45 minutes before the Friday payer, hundreds of men, women and children are marching in the street right in front of the hotel were we stayed, followed by tens of cars, all waving flags and shouting slogans of freedom and heading for Mahkama.
It gets crowded as more and more people flood in from all over the city
A family in Mahkama square, Benghazi
A handicapped man helped to get to the side where men pray in Mahkama, Benghazi
In Mahkama, women had a huge space right in front of the Martyers wall and the main Radio station, while men were further in the back towards the sea.
Women at Friday Prayer in Mahkama
From the top of the Media Center or what was the Supreme Court, photographers had the best view for the Friday Prayer that was attended by thousands of people
Friday Prayer
Media & Artwork Center
Revolutionaries have turned the courts in Mahkama to a media center where journalists can come and finish thier work right from the middle of events. They also created access cards to be given to all journalists, photographers, correspondents and translators.
But this media center is also a place where young people share their creative work about the revolution. The walls were covered by caricatures and graffiti.
Artwork on the walls of the Media Center in Mahkama
But graffiti was not just in Mahkama, it was all over the city. Everywhere you go you'll find revolutionaries writings on the walls of Benghazi. I was amused by reading them all; taking as many photos as I could. It was cool seeing those affected by the Egyptian sense of humor
"Moamar, Teer Enta" Egyptians used the same phrase for Mubarak. Teer enta is a phrase from an Egyptian movie, a genie would say it to the main character so he can disappeare
Speaking of Egyptians; an Egyptian Medical Tent was set up in Mahkama, with doctors, volunteers and a huge pile of medications under the pick and call of rebels
Egyptian Tent in Benghazi
It was such a joy for me to have seen and hear slogans of unity between Libya and Egypt. Young men would break into this slogan when they see my Egyptian Tag: Libya & Egypt; one hand
Libya & Egypt, one hand
Saturday March 12th
Women March
After we reached the house of a Finnish friend, I thought I better use that time and get the cellphone and credit I need to buy. Going back to the hotel, in the emtpy streets of Benghazi I see a big demonstration of women apparently heading to Mahkama. I asked the driver to pull over so I can take some photos. I had to run to catch up with them..I noticed I was the only person taking photos at this time and wondered how would it be like if I were actually working with some network
Women demonstration heading to Mahkama
Passing by the hotel, all journalists went out and started taking photos. I met my team an hour after that and we went for more photos
Kids protesters chanting slogans of Freedom from the Square Radio
Late that day, my team went back to the hotel and I went to buy a memory card, and though the hotel was very close, I wasn't sure which street I should take. A Libyan young man helped me find my way and on the way to the hotel he explained how weak and stupid Gadaffi was, something I told him we're all sure of.
On the way back to the hotel I came across the Libyan Central Bank in Benghazi. Salem, the Libyan youngman, explained how it's protected by both civilians and armed special forces from the Libyan army
El geesh wel sha3 eeeed wa7da. Army and People, one hand
Sunday March 13th
TubruQ
After the ambush set up for Aljazeera cameraman, many journalists decided to leave and even those who wanted to stay were called by their bosses to leave ASAP. We left Benghazi for a town in the east called Tubruq some 150km from the Egyptian border.
But before leaving Benghazi, we caught the Egyptian Libyan Doctors March supporting the Arab Leagues call for a No-Fly zone over Libya
Doctors march to support the Arab League call for a No-Fly zone over Libya
Rebels supporting the Doctor march
On the way back to Egypt, we stopped for food at a town called Emsaed not too far from the Egyptian border. I took this photo stealthily from the car window
Locals sitting outside a shop in Emsaed
Last Checkpoint
Stopping for some photos wtih those amazing people
Caption:Feb 17th Revolution. We win or die. Allah is on our side
EGYPT
The rebels left us with friendly goodbyes and wishes of a safe trip back to Cairo just so we get to the frowny faces of some Egyptian officials on the other side. Most of them recognized me and remembered I was "that girl" who tried to get through to Libya. "So you went! ha" one of them shouted astonished
I totally forgot about their frowns once we came across the friendly faces of the Egyptian Army. An officer and a soldier welcoming us home and disturbuting food and juice was such a relief for me.
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